Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier also obliged with an imaginative make-do for the urban cowboy: The calves of leather pants were embossed with trompe l'oeil boots. But the master of couture gender games had more up his sleeve. Legging-slender trousers (in bronze Lurex, even) and a tracksuit topped with a monkey fur shrug had the campy homme fatal glamour that is Gaultier's special contribution to the lexicon of modern masculinity. He's always understood that ambiguity can be an asset, in the same way that assumptions are a liability.